Mǎmiànqún (马面裙)
The mǎmiànqún is a long women’s skirt constructed from two overlapping panels of fabric, with pleated portions at the sides and unpleated sections at the center front and center back. Mamianqun translates to “horse-face” skirt and derives its name from the shape of “horse-face” structures on traditional Chinese city walls, which were rectangular bastions protruding from the wall designed to eliminate blind corners and thus increase the defensive capacity of the wall. The silhouette of the wall is similar to how the skirt is broken into alternating pleated and flat portions. The mamianqun was worn from the Song Dynasty through the Qing Dynasty, and is now very popular amongst the modern Hanfu revival movement.
Ǎoqún (袄裙)
The ǎoqún (袄裙) is a set of garments consisting of a long-sleeved top worn layered over a pleated skirt. The upper garment of the aoqun was called the ǎo (袄) if it was lined or the shān (衫) if it was unlined. The lower garment, or qún (裙), was most often a mǎmiànqún (马面裙) skirt. Aoqun were most popular during the Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasties, and were typically made from silk and decorated with embroidery or made from rich brocades.
Bǐjiǎ (比甲)
The bijia is a women’s vest featuring a vertical opening in the front and side slits reaching up to the hips or underarms. The bijia could range in length from the thigh to the calf, and could feature a short straight collar, a round collar, or a square collar. Bijia were typically made from silk or cotton and were commonly worn over a top and skirt such as a shan and mamianqun.
Zhàojiǎ (罩甲)
The Zhaojia is a men’s sleeveless surcoat with a straight opening in the front and a square collar, worn as part of the military uniform in the Ming Dynasty. The length can vary from the thigh to the calf. The zhaojia features side slits and a slit at the center back to accommodate horseback riding.
Tiēlǐ (贴里)
The tieli is a crossed-collar men’s robe with a pleated skirt worn in the Yuan Dynasty through the Ming Dynasty. An exclusive form of ceremonial tieli were known as cìfú (赐服). Cifu were decorated with 4-clawed dragon-like creatures and could be broken down into categories: mǎngfú (蟒服, python robe); fēiyúfú (飞鱼服, flying fish robe); dòuniúfú (斗牛服, fighting bull robe); and qílínfú (麒麟服, qilin robe).
Shùhè (裋褐)
The shuhe is a unisex utilitarian cross-collar top, typically paired with a pair of trousers (called ku/kun), worn by commoners and martial artists. The hem of the shuhe can range in length, typically falling between the hip and the thigh; and the sleeves of the shuhe typically reach between the wrist to slightly beyond the fingertips.
Yuánlǐngpáo (圆领袍)
The yuanlingpao is a long round-collared outer robe worn layered on top of other garments, such as the zhiduo or tieli. The yuanlingpao evolved from the Hufu fanlingpao of Central Asia which features curved overturned lapels.
Zhíduō (直裰)
The zhiduo is a cross-collar long men’s robe favored by scholars, officials, and Buddhist monks. Zhiduo can have straight sleeves or wide curved pipa sleeves, and the hem length should fall between the knee and the ankle. Typically, the collar has a white collarguard sewn on top of it designed to be replaced when it becomes soiled or worn out. Zhiduo were worn between the Tang Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty, however styles slightly varied between dynasties.