Bèizi (褙子)
The Beizi is an overcoat with straight vertical collars that are not fastened in the front so that the inner layers of the outfit are visible. Beizi can range in length from ankle-length to above the knee; and the sleeves can be deep or narrow, long or short. Often, there are side slits reaching up to the waist or armpit. The beizi was often worn over a yichang style upper garment and skirt (qun) or trousers (ku/kun).
The Beizi skyrocketed to popularity in the Song Dynasty due to the way that the simple elegance of its silhouette embodied the “less is more” philosophy of beauty that was prevalent at the time. The beizi was worn by men and women of all social strata, though it was more often worn amongst the middle and upper class. Status was conveyed via material choice and decorations, rather than the silhouette of the garment. Decorations such as embroidery were commonly made along the sleeve cuffs, collar, and side slit trims. Ramie, silk, and even semi-sheer gauze were all common materials to construct beizi from. The beizi continued to be worn through the Ming Dynasty.
Sew Your Own
Interested in making your own beizi? Use my unisex hanfu sewing pattern (includes yichang, shenyi, and beizi patterns).
Looking for a Hanfu sewing pattern? Making a wuxia or danmei cosplay or Chinese historical reenactment costume? Want a pattern that provides info on how to properly wear Hanfu and historical considerations like sleeve length and fabric choices? I have made just the pattern for you!
This pattern includes 3 outfits—a yichang, shenyi, and beizi—which can be worn layered together or separately. This entire ensemble would be most at place during the Song Dynasty, however the yichang and shenyi would be appropriate as early as the Warring States Period.
This digital download includes:
Printable sewing pattern & sewing instructions for 3 garments: Yichang, Shenyi, and Beizi
Printable patterns are compatible with US Letter, A4 paper, and A0 paper.
Sizes S/M/L/XL and instructions on how to resize your pattern
See size chart image for detailed measurements. Since hanfu are loose fitting this size range covers approximately US sizes XS-XXL womens or XS-L mens
Instructions on how to wear Hanfu in a historically accurate way
Historical considerations for fabrics, colors, motifs, and fit
Estimated yardage & sample cutting layouts
Note that I pattern in metric, so the standard seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in). Information to alter the seam allowance is provided
When you purchase this pattern, a checkout page will open containing a link to the digital download that will last for 24 hours. You will also receive an email with the same link. The download is a zip file which you will need to unzip to access the PDFs of the printable patterns and instructions. Please make sure to provide your correct email address so that the digital download is delivered to you successfully and remember to download it within 24 hours of delivery. To use the digital pattern, print out the pattern PDFs, tape together the numbered grid of pages, and then cut out the pattern pieces.
Note that this pattern is to be used for your personal use only. Commercial use and redistribution are not permitted.
Sources Consulted:
Chinese Clothing by Hua Mei
5000 Years of Chinese Costume by Xun Zhou
Hanfu: A Visual Primer of Historical Han Chinese Attire by the Northern California Hanfu Association
