Bànbì (半臂)
The banbi is a short jacket with short sleeves. The collar of the banbi was most commonly straight and vertical (duijin) and could feature ties in the front. However crossed-collar (jiaoling), round-collar (yuanling), u-shaped-collar (tanling), and square-collar (fangling) variations were also made.
Banbi were a staple of women’s clothing from the Tang Dynasty to the Yuan Dynasty, most commonly worn over or under a ruqun. The banbi was originally worn by maids of honor. However, in the Song Dynasty the style became popular amongst male and female commoners since the garment allowed for good mobility and did not get in the way of work. Subsequently, popularity amongst the upper class declined as the garment took on a more utilitarian identity. Banbi were often made from ramie or raw silk.
Sew Your Own
Interested in making your own duijin banbi? Use my women’s hanfu sewing pattern (includes qixiong ruqun, banbi, and da xiu shan patterns).
Looking for a Hanfu sewing pattern? Making a wuxia or xianxia cosplay or Chinese historical reenactment costume? Want a pattern that provides info on how to properly wear Hanfu and historical considerations like sleeve length and fabric choices? I have made just the pattern for you!
This pattern includes 3 outfits—a qixiong ruqun, banbi, and da xiu shan—which can be worn layered together or separately. These garments would fit best in the Tang Dynasty, Sui Dynasty, or Five Dynasties Period.
This digital download includes:
Printable sewing pattern & sewing instructions for 3 garments: Qixiong Ruqun, Banbi, and Da Xiu Shan
Printable patterns are compatible with US Letter, A4 paper, and A0 paper
Sizes S/M/L/XL and instructions on how to resize your pattern
See size chart image for detailed measurements. Since hanfu are loose-fitting, this size range covers approximately US women’s XS-XXL
Instructions on how to wear hanfu in a historically accurate way
Historical considerations for fabrics, colors, motifs, and fit
Estimated yardage & sample cutting layouts
Note that I pattern in metric, so the standard seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8 in). Information to alter the seam allowance is provided
When you purchase this pattern, a checkout page will open containing a link to the digital download that will last for 24 hours. You will also receive an email with the same link.The download is a zip file which you will need to unzip to access the PDFs of the printable patterns and instructions. Please make sure to provide your correct email address so that the digital download is delivered to you successfully and remember to download it within 24 hours of delivery. To use the digital pattern, print out the pattern PDFs, tape together the numbered grid of pages, and then cut out the pattern pieces.
Note that this pattern is to be used for your personal use only. Commercial use and redistribution are not permitted.
Sources Consulted:
5000 Years of Chinese Costume by Xun Zhou
Splendors of a golden era in China: the culture and arts of the Tang Dynasty by Changjun Dong & Xiaoli Dong
A Social History of Medieval China by Ruixi Zhu, Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang
